Blooming into Summer: A Floriculturist's Guide to July

 

July, the heart of summer, is a month of bright flowers and plentiful growth for floriculturists. From the delicate petals of roses to the vibrant hues of sunflowers, the garden brims with life, necessitating careful attention and smart planning. This month's schedule will help you navigate the specific obstacles and possibilities that July brings.

Whether you're a seasoned expert or a dedicated hobbyist, this thorough guide will provide you with the information you need to guarantee your flowers survive in the summer heat and humidity. From watering and fertilising to dealing with pests and illnesses, we'll look at your flowers' individual needs and offer practical recommendations for maximising their beauty and lifespan.

Join us as we dig into the world of July's floral beauties and discover the secrets of a healthy garden, even at the height of summer.

FAQ

Q1: What are the main problems that floriculturists confront in July?

July brings severe heat and humidity, which may be bad for plants. Watering requirements rise dramatically, and pests and illnesses become increasingly common. Floriculturists must be careful in monitoring their plants and adopting proactive actions to keep them healthy.

Q2: What are some important duties for floriculturists in July?

 July is a very busy month for floriculturists. Essential duties include watering. Frequent and thorough watering is essential for combating the heat and keeping plants hydrated.

 Fertilising:** Plants require extra nutrients during this period of growth. * Deadheading:** Regularly removing spent blooms promotes new flower production. * Pest and disease control:** Monitor for infestations and diseases and take appropriate measures. * Pruning:** Some plants benefit from light pruning to promote bushier growth and more blooms.

Q3: Which flowers are most suited for July planting?

In July, heat-tolerant flowers such as zinnias grow. These colourful blossoms come in a variety of colours and offer long-lasting colours.

Sunflowers: These famous flowers represent summer and attract pollinators.

The Cosmos: These tiny blooms are easy to grow and come in a variety of pink, white, and red colours.

Marigolds: These vibrant blossoms are noted for their pest-repelling abilities.

 Salvia: These vivid blossoms create a stunning show of colour and attract hummingbirds.

Q4: What are some ideas for conserving water in July?

 Conserving water is critical in July. Here are a few tips:
Water thoroughly and less frequently: This supports deeper root development and increases drought tolerance.

Mulch: A thick layer of mulch retains soil moisture and prevents evaporation.
Use drip irrigation: This approach directs water to the roots, reducing waste.
Water in the early morning: This allows the water to penetrate into the soil before it becomes too hot.

Q5: What are some frequent pests and illnesses to watch for in July?

July is a peak season for pest and disease outbreaks. Common offenders include aphids. These small insects may drain sap from plants, causing damage and weakening.

Spider mites: These microscopic critters can cause leaves to yellow and fall.

Powdery mildew:This fungal disease causes a white powdery covering on leaves, which prevents growth.

Root Rot:This fungal disease arises when soil is overly damp, causing plants to wilt and die.

Q6: How should floriculturists prepare for the next autumn season in July?

July is an ideal time to begin preparing for the fall planting season. Floriculturists can start seeds inside. Some fall-blooming flowers, such as pansies and mums, benefit from seeding inside in July.

Order bulbs: Many fall-blooming bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, should be bought in advance to ensure availability.

Prepare the soil: Add compost and other fertilisers to produce a healthy environment for autumn planting.

Q7: What is the most crucial piece of advice for floriculturists this July?**

Stay watchful and adaptive! The weather may change fast in July, and plants require continual maintenance. Monitor your plants regularly, adjust your techniques as required, and enjoy the splendour of summer blossoms!

 

 

  

  

Our native shrubs and their placement in shrub gardens

Among our wild plants, we will find a good number, which is very good for planting our shrub gardens.

Among the trees, oaks and lime trees are already popular for greenery. But birches are also beautiful trees, e.g. one on each side of an entrance gate or in front of a gazebo. With their white bark and slender twigs, and in autumn they also stand out nicely among spruces and other dark-leaved trees with their pale yellow leaves.

Apples have rounded leaves and red leaves in autumn, which are a wonderful match for the red berries of the rowan. The glossy dark-leaved alders and pale ash trees are suitable for wetter sites. The water's edge will be home to many species of willow and willow, with or without poplars, with glossy green or silvery leaves. Willows are very suitable for planting around the edges of pastures and paddocks, but also for shelter for livestock from the sultry sun. Another shrub suitable for the water's edge is the beautiful willow. A solitary tree, as if withdrawn into itself, dreaming of the southern sun in our flora is the elm. In drier, lime-rich soils, the saddlebush grows, which in autumn is glorious with its distinctive red fruit. Sun-loving shrubs are also our partridge berries (Viburnum vulgare) with their white flower crests and red berries, our ditch currants, wild roses, etc. It is nice to be able to plant all our pergolas with hazel.

Among the rarer shrubs are Lonicera (Lonicera with yellow flowers and blue berries) in honeysuckle forests, alder (Daphne mezereum), about 1 m tall, poisonous but very beautiful tree, found in moist forests, blooms in late winter with red fragrant flowers, berries bright red. Beaver's willow (Solanum Dulcamare) is not particularly rare, at least in the southern part of the country, but care must be taken when transplanting it into the garden as it is poisonous. The Pundur birch, the Lapland willow, which are less common in bogs, are interesting as remnants of the post-ice age in our country.

Our conifers grow into a stately, stout pyramid when planted in the right soil, in a free, sunny spot. Our pine is not very beautiful when young, but when old, its slender trunk resembles a warm-earth palm. It is a tree that is inseparable from our seaside dunes. The larch develops its distinctive beauty only as a free-standing tree. Junipers (Juniperus) grow as flame poles. In the Jurmala area, the yew (Taxus baccata) can still be found. It should be noted that it tends to disappear from the wild everywhere in central Europe. It is the only conifer that tolerates shade.

We can use our common hops from the riversides and ivy (Hedera helix) from the forests of Rucava as vine plants. Among our natural perennials, we will also find many that are perfectly suitable for transplanting into our shrub garden. If we plant them carefully, with the whole root ball, in a suitable place and maintain them properly so that the strongest weeds do not kill them, they will develop even more vigorously and flower more abundantly than when growing in the wild.

There are three basic rules we must always keep in mind when gardening.

First of all, we must respect the soil requirements of our plant life: do not forget that a garden is a work of art .There is no point in artificially doing what nature does.

The beauty of nature must also be enhanced, more vividly described than it is in nature, without, however, overstepping the boundaries imposed by the laws of nature.

And thirdly, the arrangement of the plants must correspond to our sense of harmonies and rhythms.

If there is a valley in our garden, we can deepen it further and create a pond at a lower level. In the deeper parts of the pond (50-60 cm) we will grow white and yellow water roses, floating, white-flowered, dwarf Rununculus trichophyllu m and other aquatic plants that we like. In the shallower part, about 10 cm deep, there will be room for a Sagittaria with dart-shaped leaves, a Sparganium (calli with green chestnut-like fruit) and a Butomus umbelatus (with large lilac flower trusses), all three of which are not very rare in the bays of the Lielupe's tributaries. They do not fall over when growing in the mountains, so we plant them in a more prominent position. On the wet banks of the pond we will plant some more of our yellow marsh swordwort (Iris pseudacorus).

Common purple coneflowers are not rare flowers, but with their glossy leaves and bright flowers, they will make an impression when growing in a large group. Other plants that are useful in the company of this plant are forget-me-nots, marsh violets, large yellow-flowered buttercups (Trollius europaeus), white cardamoms (Cardamim pratense), some seedlings of Spiraea ulmaria with white-yellowish, pleasant-smelling flower pitchers. A beautiful, white, strongly scented evening primrose and many other plants. On the higher banks of the pond, among some shrubs, we can find pink-flowered valerian (Valeriana officinalis) in larger clumps, blue-flowered (cream-white is rarer) Thalietrum aquillegifolium with beautiful acanthus-shaped leaves, yellow-flowered Lysimachia species with stalked leaves, red-flowered Lytrum saliceria, all common plants, will have strong effects if planted in a wild area.

Behind the path, in a sunny clearing, a place for our most beautiful sun-loving meadow, ditch and woodland plants: yellow prim u l a (Primula officinalis) flowering in spring, various species of clockwort, pansies, meadow peas, etc. A very dry gravelly mound will be the place for our proud sunflowers (Verboscum), yellow (Helichrysum) and white (Antennaria) cat's-feet, small, thick-leaved, bright yellow S e d u m a c re (fever grass), country timean (Thimus serpillus), etc.

Shady areas under deciduous trees will be planted with Convallaria majalis, ferns, Asarum europaeum, Anemone nemorosa and A. Hepatica, Latyrus vernus, Hedera helix, etc.

At the edge of the greenery, under the branches of the shrubs : fragrant violets (Viola odorata) These will be easier to grow from seed than to collect seedlings, then the "Stars of Bethlehem"

(Ornitogalum umbellatum) a small plant of the lily genus with white flowers, green on the outside, which only open around lunchtime, etc. Know your native land ! But let us also know the beauty of her plants. Who cares to track down and grow in their garden the most attractive representatives of our flora. I would like to say to all those who try to grow our rare plants in their own gardens: collect the seeds or shoots from your plants and sow them or display them again in the open air in a suitable place, because our task is not to plunder our natural treasures, but to protect and enhance them.

Urban Oasis: The Best Trees and Shrubs for Green Alleys and City Streets

The concrete jungle can feel suffocating, but there's a simple solution: greenery. Trees and shrubs, when strategically planted, can transform city streets into vibrant, inviting spaces. They provide shade, clean the air, and even boost property values. But choosing the right plants for urban landscapes requires careful consideration.

This post will explore the most popular trees and shrubs for alleys and cities, focusing on their hardiness, size, and aesthetic appeal. 

Trees for City Streets

1. London Plane Tree (Platanus x hispanica): A classic choice, the London Plane is hardy, tolerant of pollution, and its distinctive peeling bark adds a unique texture to the cityscape. Popular keywords: London Plane, Platanus x hispanica, pollution tolerant trees, urban trees, shade trees.

2. American Elm (Ulmus americana): Once a staple, the American Elm is making a comeback thanks to disease-resistant cultivars. Its graceful canopy provides ample shade. Popular keywords: American Elm, Ulmus americana, disease resistant, graceful canopy, shade trees, urban trees.

3. Red Maple (Acer rubrum): A stunning choice for fall color, Red Maples offer a vibrant display in autumn. They're relatively fast-growing and adaptable to various urban conditions. Popular keywords: Red Maple, Acer rubrum, fall colour, fast-growing trees, urban trees, shade trees.

4. Crabapple (Malus spp.): These smaller trees offer beautiful spring blossoms and attractive fruit later in the season. They're ideal for smaller spaces and add visual interest to urban areas. Popular keywords: Crabapple, Malus, spring blossoms, small trees, urban trees, flowering trees.

Crabapple tree with blossoms and fruit

5. Norway Spruce (Picea abies): A classic evergreen that provides year-round interest. Norway Spruce thrives in urban environments and offers a striking silhouette. Popular keywords: Norway Spruce, Picea abies, evergreen trees, urban trees, tall trees.

Norway Spruce with its conical shape

Shrubs for Alleys and Urban Spaces

1. Boxwood (Buxus spp.): A versatile evergreen that can be pruned into various shapes. Boxwood tolerates shade and pollution, making it perfect for dense urban areas. Popular keywords: Boxwood, Buxus, evergreen shrubs, shade tolerant shrubs, pollution tolerant shrubs, urban shrubs.

2. Lilac (Syringa vulgaris): A fragrant delight, Lilac bushes shower their surroundings with beautiful blossoms in spring. They prefer full sun and add colour to urban landscapes. Popular keywords: Lilac, Syringa vulgaris, fragrant shrubs, flowering shrubs, urban shrubs, spring blooms.

Lilac bush with fragrant purple flowers

3. Viburnum (Viburnum spp.): Viburnums offer attractive foliage, fragrant flowers, and colorful berries. They thrive in a range of conditions and offer year-round interest. Popular keywords: Viburnum, flowering shrubs, fragrant shrubs, berry-producing shrubs, urban shrubs.

Viburnum with its colourful berries

4. Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.): These shrubs are a popular choice for their showy flower clusters and adaptability to various conditions. They add a vibrant touch to urban landscapes. Popular keywords: Hydrangea, flowering shrubs, showy flowers, urban shrubs.

Hydrangea with large, colourful flower clusters

5. Butterfly Bush (Buddleja davidii): This fast-growing shrub attracts pollinators and adds a burst of color to urban spaces. Its fragrance adds another sensory dimension. Popular keywords: Butterfly Bush, Buddleja davidii, pollinator-friendly shrubs, fragrant shrubs, urban shrubs.

Planning Your Urban Oasis

When choosing trees and shrubs for your city or alley, remember to consider factors like sun exposure, soil conditions, and available space. Consult with local nurseries or arborists to find the best species for your specific location. By adding greenery to urban landscapes, we can create a healthier, more beautiful, and more welcoming environment for all.

June's Garden Bounty: A Guide to Thriving Vegetables

 June has arrived, and with it comes the promise of rich summer crops! Your vegetable garden is most certainly thriving, and it's time to focus on caring your plants to guarantee a successful season. This month, we'll focus on two crucial topics: insect control and correct irrigation.

Fighting the Good Fight: Pest Control In June

June is a perfect season for pests to make their move, so be vigilant. Here are some strategies for keeping your vegetables safe: 

Know Your Enemy:

Identify common pests in your region, such as aphids, whiteflies, squash bugs, or tomato hornworms, and use tailored treatments.

To discourage pests, consider interplanting with herbs such as basil, garlic, or oregano.

robust Soil:Plants that are strong and robust are more pest-resistant. Maintain proper soil fertility and drainage.

Netting and Row Covers: Use netting or row covers to keep flying insects away from crops such as squash and melons.

Organic Solutions:Insecticidal Soap:** Safe for plants and beneficial insects, apply early in the morning or evening for best results.

Neem Oil:** Neem oil, a natural pesticide with antifungal characteristics, may be applied to plants to prevent pests.

Diatomaceous Earth:** A fine powder that dehydrates and kills insects, which can be sprinkled.

Hand-Picking:For bigger pests like as hornworms, a simple hand-pick may be both effective and ecologically benign.

Beneficial Insects: Plant blooms that will attract ladybirds, lacewings, and other helpful insects to your yard. They will naturally control pesky insect populations.

Drench Your Garden with Success: 

Watering in June

Summer heat may rapidly dry up your soil, making your plants thirsty. Here's how to make sure your vegetables are properly hydrated:

Deep Watering**: Instead of regular shallow watering, water deeply less often. This promotes deep root development, increasing your plants' drought tolerance.

Early Morning Watering:** Avoid watering during the warmest part of the day, since this might cause evaporation and illness. Watering in the morning allows the water to be absorbed and the leaves to dry rapidly, so avoiding fungal threats.

Mulch, Mulch, Mulch! A thick layer of mulch helps to retain moisture, control weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Bonus Tip: Keep a log of your pest control methods and watering regimen. This will allow you to track what works and alter your strategy as needed.

June's Abundance:

With diligent pest management and appropriate irrigation, your June garden will be brimming with wonderful vegetables! From sweet corn and crisp beans to juicy tomatoes and vivid peppers, savour the results of your labour and revel in the wealth of summer.

Happy gardening!

  

Ten Gardener's Commandments

 

Reviewing my notes, which I had collected for decades, I was able to compile them into 10 theses, which can be referred to as the ten guidelines of a gardener. 

Here are the commandments:

Don't be scared to invest on something worthwhile! Good planting material, good nursery stock, decent seeds, even if they cost more, will be cheaper in the end than inexpensive but inferior items. The phrase says, "What you buy cheaply, you pay dearly!"

Don't hésiter à dépenser sur quelque chose de bénéfique! Le bon matériau de plantation, le bon stock de graines, les bons semences, même si elles coûtent plus cher, seront finalement moins coûteux que les produits chers mais inférieurs. On dit : ce que vous achetez à prix réduit, vous payez cher!

Avoid being wasteful! Expensive paint-coated artificial garden fence, flower pegs, espaliers, and other such items will serve no greater purpose than much basic, less expensive alternatives.

Il ne faut pas gaspiller! La fencing de jardin artificielle, les stakes de fleurs, les espaliers, etc., peints avec une peinture coûteuse, ne sera pas plus utile que les beaucoup plus simples et moins coûteux.

 

Sow and plant according to the local climate and soil makeup. What works well in Paris, London, or Berlin will not work as well in Oslo, Helsinki, and other locations. Good native species and kinds will always be preferable to alien ones unsuitable to the environment.

Apportez vos souches et vos plantations à la météo locale et à la composition du sol. Quelqu'un qui réussit à Paris, Londres ou Berlin ne réussira pas aussi bien à Oslo, Helsinki, etc. Les espèces natives et les variétés locales seront toujours supérieures aux espèces étrangères qui ne correspondent pas aux conditions.

If you take care of and nourish the land, it will take care of you. For gardening purposes, fallow manure works better than any artificial manure; part of this is also enhanced by properly loosening the soil.

Keep plants from suffering from dryness. Water still works wonders, as does timing your plant watering.

Try out new types and species in tiny batches! Keep and grow what turns out to be good while discarding what is poor and inferior!

Don't get carried away with pricey news! What is excellent among them will find its own way, become more affordable, and accessible to all.

Don't forget to balance your income and spending at the end of each year!
Legislate for the garden's well-being and happiness, and record it as revenue, but dismiss any failures and cheats; that is when things go wrong.

Don't dismiss excellent advise, but don't ignore your own common sense.

Don't be embarrassed to seek help from a neighbour if you don't know anything yourself, and don't assume you know everything, since you may wind up knowing very little.

Don't put off until tomorrow what you can accomplish right now! In horticulture, it is quite significant. There's never enough time. What may be done successfully now may be too late tomorrow. 

June's Bounty: Nurturing Tomatoes and Cucumbers for a Delicious Harvest

June is a month of warmth and growth, and our gardens are full with life! This month is critical for nourishing our tomato and cucumber plants in order to secure an abundant crop. Let's dig into the June gardening schedule, concentrating on the most important duties for these cherished summer crops.

Tomato Care and Harvesting:

Stake and Support:As your tomato plants get taller, stake them securely to keep them from toppling over. Use robust tomato cages or stakes, then tie the plants to them as they develop.

Pruning for Success: Remove any suckers (tiny shoots emerging from the junction of stems and branches) to help the plant to concentrate its efforts on producing larger, sweeter fruit.

Watering Wisely: Tomatoes require regular watering, particularly in hot weather. To avoid fungal infections, water thoroughly at the plant's base rather than soaking the leaves.

Harvest Time: Your first ripe tomatoes should be ready for picking! Choose them when they're firm and completely coloured. Don't wait too long, because they will get overripe.

Cucumber Care and Harvesting:

Taming the Vine: Cucumbers grow quickly, so supply them with trellises or cages to support their climbing vines. This keeps them from sprawling on the ground and promotes greater air circulation, so preventing disease transmission.

Pinch off the side shoots: Remove the side shoots (small branches sprouting from the main stem) to direct the plant's energy towards producing more cucumbers.

Regular Watering: Cucumbers require regular hydration, particularly during dry months. Water deeply at the plant's base, making sure the foliage remains dry.

 Harvesting Freshness: Pick cucumbers while they are young and firm. If left on the vine for too long, they will become sour and seedy. 

Tomato Seedlings: A Look Forward:

Starting Indoors: If you want to grow your own tomato seedlings for next year, June is an excellent month to start. Sow the seeds in seed trays filled with high-quality seed starting mix.

Provide the Proper Conditions: Keep the seedlings in a warm, sunny location and water them regularly. Thin out seedlings as required to allow them room to grow.

Enjoy the fruits of your labour:

June is the ideal month to experience the fresh flavours of homegrown tomatoes and cucumbers. Use your surplus to create delectable salads, sandwiches, and other summer foods.

Remember:

Pest Control: Monitor pests and illnesses and take preventative measures. Fertilise Regularly: Fertilise your plants regularly to promote proper growth and fruit production.

By following these guidelines, you may help your tomato and cucumber plants produce a plentiful crop! Enjoy the results of your labour in delectable summer cuisine. Happy gardening!

 

 

Creating a Vibrant Garden on Rubble: A Guide to Beautifying Newly Built Landscapes

 

When you move into a newly built home, the surrounding scenery is often desolate rubble and naked dirt. While this may appear to be an uninviting canvas, it offers a unique opportunity to construct a flourishing garden that will alter your outdoor environment. With careful planning and the right plants, you can create a magnificent sanctuary that improves both the beauty and functionality of your space.

Choosing the Best Plants for Rubble

The secret to success when gardening on debris is to choose plants that can withstand harsh conditions. These plants should be able to tolerate poor soil, little moisture, and building waste. Some suitable choices are:

Trees:

* Silver birch (Betula pendula): Known for its elegant white bark and ability to withstand dry conditions.
* Aspen (Populus tremuloides): A rapidly growing tree with beautiful, quivering leaves.

* Hawthorn (Crataegus spp.) is a thorny shrub or small tree with attractive spring blooms and fruit.

Bushes:

* Buddleja (Buddleja davidii): Also known as the butterfly bush, this shrub attracts pollinators with its fragrant, colourful blossoms.
* Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.) is a hardy shrub with evergreen foliage and colourful berries.

* Heather (Calluna vulgaris) is a low-growing evergreen shrub that prefers acidic, well-drained soil.

Prepare the Rubble

• To make the environment more favourable for plants, the rubble must be prepared before to planting. This involves:

• *Remove heavy material, such as concrete, metal, or wood. * Break up smaller rubble with a sledgehammer or pickaxe.

To boost soil fertility and drainage, add compost or manure. For deep rubble, build raised beds using wooden or stone frames and topsoil.

Planting and Maintenance

Once the rubble has been prepped, you may start planting your preferred plants. Dig holes that are twice the width of the root balls and the same depth. Fill the holes with topsoil and compost, then gently set the plants in them. Firm the dirt around each plant's base and thoroughly water it.

When it comes to maintenance, water your plants on a regular basis, especially during hot and dry weather. Mulch around the base of plants to preserve moisture and control weeds. To keep trees and shrubs in good shape and size, prune them as needed.

Conclusion

Creating a garden from rubble may appear to be a difficult endeavour, but with the appropriate attitude and plant selection, it is perfectly achievable. By following these guidelines, you can change your barren rubble into a blooming paradise that will improve the aesthetics of your property while also providing a safe habitat for wildlife. Embrace the challenge and get the benefits of building a beautiful garden on an unexpected base.

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Gardener’s calendar - March

March is a busy and exciting month for gardeners, as the spring officially arrives and the garden comes to life. The weather is warming up, the soil is thawing, and the plants are growing. There are many tasks that you can do in March to make the most of the season and prepare your garden for the summer. Here are some tips and ideas for different types of gardens.

Key takeaways

What to do	What to plant	What to harvest
Weed and hoe your soil and beds	Maincrop vegetables like potatoes, onions, and leeks	Spring vegetables like spinach, radishes, and spring onions
Harden off and transplant your seedlings	Annual flowers like pansies, violas, and nasturtiums	Herbs like chives, coriander, and dill
Divide and replant your perennials	Fruit trees and bushes like apples, pears, and raspberries	Spring flowers like daffodils, tulips, and primroses
Support and train your climbers and vines	Lawn grass and wildflowers	Rhubarb and forced chicory

Weed and hoe your soil and beds

One of the first tasks that you can do in March is to weed and hoe your soil and beds, to remove any unwanted plants and improve the condition of your soil. Weeds can compete with your plants for space, light, water, and nutrients, and can also harbor pests and diseases. Hoeing can help break up the soil surface, aerate the soil, and incorporate organic matter. Here are some steps to follow:

• Choose a dry and sunny day to weed and hoe your soil and beds, as the weeds will be easier to pull out and will dry out and die faster.
• Use a sharp and sturdy hoe to cut off the weeds just below the soil surface, and rake them up and dispose of them. You can also use a hand weeder or a trowel to dig out any deep-rooted or persistent weeds, such as dandelions or bindweed.
• Avoid hoeing too deeply or too close to your plants, as you may damage their roots or disturb their growth. You can also use a mulch or a weed barrier to suppress the weeds and prevent them from germinating.
• Hoe your soil and beds regularly, at least once a week, to keep the weeds under control and maintain loose and fertile soil.

Harden off and transplant your seedlings

Another task that you can do in March is to harden off and transplant your seedlings, to acclimatize them to the outdoor conditions and give them more space and nutrients to grow. Hardening off is the process of gradually exposing your seedlings to the outside temperature, light, and wind, to reduce the shock and stress of the transition. Transplanting is the process of moving your seedlings from their original containers or trays to their final growing location, such as a pot, a bed, or a border. Here are some tips for hardening off and transplanting your seedlings:

• Start hardening off your seedlings about two weeks before transplanting them, when the weather is mild and settled, and the risk of frost is low.
• Place your seedlings in a sheltered and sunny spot, such as a porch, a patio, or a cold frame, and leave them there for a few hours a day, increasing the duration and exposure each day.
• Bring your seedlings indoors or cover them with a fleece or a cloche at night, or if the weather is cold, windy, or rainy.
• Water your seedlings well before and after transplanting them, and avoid transplanting them in the hottest part of the day, to prevent wilting or scorching.
• Dig a hole or a trench for your seedlings, slightly larger and deeper than their root ball, and add some compost or fertilizer to the bottom.
• Carefully remove your seedlings from their containers or trays, holding them by the leaves and not by the stems, and gently tease out any tangled or circling roots.
• Place your seedlings in the hole or the trench, and fill in the gaps with soil, firming it around the base of the stem. Make sure the soil level is the same as it was in the container or tray, and that the stem is not buried or exposed.
• Space your seedlings according to the instructions on the packet, or the size and shape of the plant, leaving enough room for them to grow and spread.
• Water your seedlings thoroughly, and mulch them with a layer of organic material, such as straw, bark, or grass clippings, to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Divide and replant your perennials

Another task that you can do in March is to divide and replant your perennials, to rejuvenate them and increase their number. Perennials are plants that live for more than two years and usually flower every year. Dividing and replanting can help improve their health, vigour, and flowering, as well as prevent overcrowding and diseases. Here are some tips for dividing and replanting your perennials:

• Choose a cool and cloudy day to divide and replant your perennials, to avoid stressing or drying out the plants.
• Select the perennials that need dividing, such as those that have become too large, too old, or too sparse. You can also choose the perennials that you want to propagate, such as those that have attractive flowers, foliage, or fragrance.
• Lift the perennials from the soil with a fork or a spade, and shake off any excess soil. You can also wash the roots with water to make them easier to see and separate.
• Divide the perennials into smaller sections, using a knife, a saw, or your hands, depending on the type and size of the plant. You can also use pruning shears or scissors to trim any damaged or diseased roots or stems.
• Replant the sections in the same or a different location, depending on your preference and design. You can also give away or swap the sections with other gardeners or friends.
• Dig a hole or a trench for the sections, slightly larger and deeper than their root ball, and add some compost or fertilizer to the bottom.
• Place the sections in the hole or the trench, and fill in the gaps with soil, firming it around the base of the stem. Make sure the soil level is the same as it was before, and that the crown or the buds are not buried or exposed.
• Water the sections thoroughly, and mulch them with a layer of organic material, such as straw, bark, or grass clippings, to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Support and train your climbers and vines

The last task that you can do in March is to support and train your climbers and vines, to guide their growth and shape their appearance. Climbers and vines are plants that have long and flexible stems that can climb or trail over other plants or structures. Supporting and training can help prevent them from becoming tangled, unruly, or invasive, as well as enhance their beauty and productivity. Here are some steps to follow:

• Choose a suitable support for your climbers and vines, such as a trellis, a pergola, a fence, or a wall. You can also use natural supports, such as trees, shrubs, or hedges.
• Install the support securely and firmly, making sure it can withstand the weight and the wind of the plants. You can also use hooks, nails, or screws to attach the support to the structure.
• Tie the stems of your climbers and vines to the support, using a soft and flexible material, such as twine, string, or wire. You can also use clips, rings, or ties to secure the stems to the support.
• Arrange the stems of your climbers and vines in a pattern or a direction that you like, such as horizontal, vertical, diagonal, or spiral. You can also prune or pinch the stems to encourage branching or flowering.
• Check and adjust the stems of your climbers and vines regularly, to make sure they are growing well and not damaging the support or the structure. You can also untie and retie the stems as they grow longer or thicker.

PLANTING ON A CITY BALCONY! March

 https://sommerhagen.blogspot.com/2012/03/sammenplantning-pa-en-bybalkong.html

If you're wondering which plants I've used in the photo above, they are as follows:

The roses are low growing, ground cover roses. The name is Gartnerfreude. 

Alpine violet; Cyclamen Hederifolium. 

Autumn heather: Calluna Vulgaris (variety with higher growth than usual.)

Berberis Stenophylla Corallina Compacta.

Hydrangea Macrophylla with green flowers: (Indoor hydrangea)

Urban garden: What to do in the garden in March

Urban garden: What to do in the garden in March: March Pruning in March. Buddleia, Hydrangeas Plant Snowdrops; Plant Summer Bulbs; Germinating Herbs in March http://www....

Frost-Resistant Vegetables: What to Plant in February

February is a challenging month for gardeners, as the weather is still cold and frosty, and the soil is still frozen or wet. However, some vegetables can withstand these conditions, and even benefit from them. These are the frost-resistant vegetables, which are plants that can survive or even thrive in low temperatures and light frosts. Planting these vegetables in February can give you a head start on the gardening season, and reward you with an early harvest. Here are some tips and ideas for choosing and planting frost-resistant vegetables in February.

Key takeaways

What to consider	What to plant	What to harvest
Your climate and frost date	Vegetables that can germinate in low soil temperatures and tolerate light frosts, such as kale, spinach, and radishes	Vegetables that can overwinter and produce crops in late winter or early spring, such as leeks, parsnips, and Brussels sprouts
Your soil type and pH	Vegetables that can grow in your soil type and pH, such as carrots, onions, and garlic	Vegetables that need a different soil type or pH, such as blueberries, potatoes, and rhubarb
Your garden space and layout	Vegetables that can fit in your garden space and layout, such as lettuce, arugula, and cilantro	Vegetables that need more space or a different layout, such as corn, squash, and pumpkins
Your planting method and time	Vegetables that can be sown directly in the ground or in containers, such as peas, beets, and turnips	Vegetables that need to be started indoors or transplanted, such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage

Choose vegetables that can germinate in low soil temperatures and tolerate light frosts

One of the main factors to consider when selecting vegetables for February planting is your climate and frost date. The frost date is the average date of the last frost in your area, which can vary depending on your location and elevation. You can find your frost date by using a calculator or a map.

Some vegetables can germinate in low soil temperatures and tolerate light frosts, and can be planted before or around your frost date. These vegetables are usually hardy, fast-growing, and short-season, and can produce crops in spring or early summer. Some examples of vegetables that can germinate in low soil temperatures and tolerate light frosts are:

• Kale: Kale is a leafy green vegetable that can grow in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C) and can tolerate light frosts. Kale can be harvested in 50 to 70 days and can be used in salads, soups, or smoothies.
• Spinach: Spinach is another leafy green vegetable that can grow in soil temperatures as low as 35°F (2°C) and can tolerate light frosts. Spinach can be harvested in 30 to 60 days and can be used in salads, soups, or quiches.
• Radishes: Radishes are root vegetables that can grow in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C) and can tolerate light frosts. Radishes can be harvested in 20 to 40 days and can be used in salads, soups, or pickles.

Choose vegetables that can grow in your soil type and pH

Another factor to consider when selecting vegetables for February planting is your soil type and pH. The soil type is the texture and composition of your soil, such as sandy, clay, or loamy. The soil pH is the acidity or alkalinity of your soil, measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. You can find your soil type and pH by using a kit or a meter.

Some vegetables can grow in any soil type and pH, while others may need a specific soil type or pH to thrive. For example, carrots, onions, and garlic can grow in most soil types and pH levels, while blueberries, potatoes, and rhubarb need acidic, well-drained, and sandy soil. Here are some examples of vegetables that can grow in different soil types and pH levels:

• Sandy soil: Sandy soil is light and coarse, and has a low water and nutrient retention. Sandy soil can be improved by adding organic matter, such as compost, manure, or leaf mould, to increase its moisture and fertility. Some vegetables that can grow in sandy soil are:
  • Cucumbers: Cucumbers are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 95°F (35°C). Cucumbers can tolerate sandy soil, as long as they are watered and fertilized regularly. Cucumbers can produce fruits in 50 to 70 days, and can be grown on trellises, cages, or hills.
  • Lavender: Lavender is a perennial herb that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Lavender prefers sandy soil, as it needs good drainage and aeration. Lavender can produce flowers in the first or second year, and can be grown in beds, borders, or containers.
  • Carrots: Carrots are cool-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 45°F (7°C). Carrots can grow well in sandy soil, as it allows their roots to grow long and straight. Carrots can be harvested in 60 to 80 days, and can be grown in rows, containers, or raised beds.
• Clay soil: Clay soil is heavy and sticky, and has a high water and nutrient retention. Clay soil can be improved by adding organic matter, such as compost, manure, or leaf mould, to loosen and aerate it. Some vegetables that can grow in clay soil are:
  • Kale: Kale is a cold-hardy crop that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Kale can grow in clay soil, as it can benefit from its moisture and nutrients. Kale can be harvested in 50 to 70 days, and can be grown in beds, containers, or intercropped with other plants.
  • Roses: Roses are perennial flowers that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Roses can adapt to clay soil, as long as they are mulched and pruned regularly. Roses can produce flowers in the first or second year, and can be grown in beds, borders, or pots.
  • Beans: Beans are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 85°F (29°C). Beans can tolerate clay soil, as long as they are watered and fertilized moderately. Beans can produce pods in 50 to 80 days, and can be grown on poles, stakes, or rows.
• Loamy soil: Loamy soil is a balanced and fertile soil, that has a good water and nutrient retention, and aeration. Loamy soil is ideal for most plants, and can be maintained by adding organic matter, such as compost, manure, or leaf mould, to replenish its nutrients. Some vegetables that can grow in loamy soil are:
  • Tomatoes: Tomatoes are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 95°F (35°C). Tomatoes can thrive in loamy soil, as it provides them with enough moisture and nutrients. Tomatoes can produce fruits in 60 to 90 days, and can be grown on cages, stakes, or pots.
  • Sunflowers: Sunflowers are annual flowers that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 70°F (21°C). Sunflowers can flourish in loamy soil, as it supports their growth and flowering. Sunflowers can produce seeds in 80 to 120 days, and can be grown in beds, borders, or containers.
  • Peppers: Peppers are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 95°F (35°C). Peppers can prosper in loamy soil, as it offers them enough moisture and nutrients. Peppers can produce fruits in 60 to 100 days, and can be grown on cages, stakes, or pots.

Urban garden: What to do in the garden in March

Urban garden: What to do in the garden in March: 

 March Pruning in March. 

Buddleia, Hydrangeas 

 Plant Snowdrops; 

 Plant Summer Bulbs; 

 Germinating Herbs in March 

How to organize work in a greenhouse with new seedlings and growing cucumbers and tomatoes

A greenhouse is a great way to extend your growing season and enjoy fresh vegetables and flowers all year round. However, a greenhouse also requires some planning and organization to make the most of its space and resources. In this article, we will show you how to organize work in a greenhouse with new seedlings and growing cucumbers and tomatoes, as well as give you some advice on what size greenhouse would be better, and what are the advantages and disadvantages of having a greenhouse.

Key takeaways

What to do	What to consider	What to avoid
Start your seedlings indoors or in a heated propagator	The germination time and temperature of your seeds	Sowing your seeds too early or too late
Harden off and transplant your seedlings in the greenhouse	The frost date and the weather conditions in your area	Transplanting your seedlings when they are too small or too large
Choose the best location and layout for your plants in the greenhouse	The light, temperature, and humidity requirements of your plants	Crowding or shading your plants in the greenhouse
Provide adequate support and care for your plants in the greenhouse	The watering, fertilizing, pruning, and harvesting needs of your plants	Overwatering or underwatering your plants in the greenhouse
Choose the right size and type of greenhouse for your garden	The space, budget, and design of your garden	Buying or building a greenhouse that is too big or too small for your garden

Start your seedlings indoors or in a heated propagator

The first step to organize work in a greenhouse is to start your seedlings indoors or in a heated propagator, as the greenhouse may not be warm enough for germination in early spring. Starting your seedlings indoors or in a heated propagator can give them a head start and a longer growing season, as well as protect them from pests and diseases. Here are some tips for starting your seedlings indoors or in a heated propagator:

• Choose the seeds that you want to grow in your greenhouse, such as cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, or flowers. You can also check the seed packets for the sowing and planting dates, as well as the germination time and temperature of your seeds.
• Use clean and sterile containers and trays for your seeds, such as pots, modules, or cell packs. You can also reuse plastic bottles, yogurt cups, or egg cartons, as long as you make some drainage holes at the bottom.
• Fill your containers and trays with a good quality seed compost, which is fine and light and has a low nutrient content. You can also make your own seed compost by mixing peat, perlite, and vermiculite.
• Sow your seeds according to the instructions on the packet, such as the depth, the spacing, and the germination time. You can also label your containers and trays with the name and date of the seeds.
• Water your seeds gently and evenly, and cover them with a clear plastic lid or a plastic bag to create a humid and warm environment. You can also mist your seeds with a spray bottle to keep them moist.
• Place your seeds in a sunny and warm spot, such as a windowsill, a greenhouse, or a heated propagator. You can also use artificial lights, such as fluorescent tubes or LED lamps, to provide extra light and heat.
• Check your seeds regularly and remove the cover as soon as they sprout. You can also thin out any weak or crowded seedlings to give more space and light to the healthy ones.

Choose the best location and layout for your plants in the greenhouse

The next step to organize work in a greenhouse is to choose the best location and layout for your plants in the greenhouse, to provide them with the optimal light, temperature, and humidity. Different plants have different requirements for these factors and may need more or less sun, heat, or moisture. Therefore, it is important to group your plants according to their needs and arrange them in a way that maximizes their growth and productivity. Here are some tips for choosing the best location and layout for your plants in the greenhouse:

• Choose the sunniest and warmest spot for your plants that need full sun and high heat, such as cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, or melons. You can also use a thermometer or a hygrometer to measure the temperature and humidity in your greenhouse and adjust them accordingly.
• Choose the shadiest and coolest spot for your plants that need partial sun and low heat, such as lettuce, spinach, radishes, or herbs. You can also use a shade cloth or a fan to reduce the sun and heat in your greenhouse and prevent wilting or bolting.
• Choose the middle spot for your plants that need moderate sun and heat, such as beans, peas, carrots, or flowers. You can also use a trellis, a stake, or a cage to support and train your plants and create more space and light in your greenhouse.
• Arrange your plants in a way that allows good air circulation and ventilation in your greenhouse, to prevent diseases and pests. You can also use a window, a door, or a vent to open and close your greenhouse, and regulate the air flow and temperature.
• Arrange your plants in a way that allows easy access and maintenance in your greenhouse, such as watering, fertilizing, pruning, and harvesting. You can also use a path, a border, or a container to separate and organize your plants, and make your greenhouse more attractive and functional.

Planning Ahead: Seed Selection for Early Spring Planting

Early spring is a great time to start planting your seeds, as the weather is warming up and the soil is moist. However, not all seeds are suitable for early spring planting, as some may need more heat, light, or time to germinate and grow. Therefore, it is important to plan ahead and select the right seeds for your garden and your climate. Here are some tips and ideas for choosing and planting your seeds in early spring.

Key takeaways

What to consider	What to choose	What to avoid
Your climate and frost date	Seeds that can tolerate cold and frost, such as peas, lettuce, and radishes	Seeds that need warm and frost-free conditions, such as tomatoes, peppers, and melons
Your soil type and pH	Seeds that can grow in your soil type and pH, such as carrots, beans, and sunflowers	Seeds that need a different soil type or pH, such as blueberries, potatoes, and lavender
Your garden space and layout	Seeds that can fit in your garden space and layout, such as spinach, basil, and nasturtiums	Seeds that need more space or a different layout, such as corn, squash, and pumpkins
Your planting method and time	Seeds that can be sown directly in the ground or in containers, such as kale, cilantro, and marigolds	Seeds that need to be started indoors or transplanted, such as broccoli, parsley, and petunias

Choose seeds that can tolerate cold and frost

One of the main factors to consider when selecting seeds for early spring planting is your climate and frost date. The frost date is the average date of the last frost in your area, which can vary depending on your location and elevation. You can find your frost date by using a calculator or a map.

Some seeds can tolerate cold and frost, and can be planted before or around your frost date. These seeds are usually hardy, fast-growing, and short-season, and can produce crops in spring or early summer. Some examples of seeds that can tolerate cold and frost are:

• Peas: Peas are one of the earliest crops to plant in spring, as they can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Peas can also withstand light frosts, and can produce pods in 50 to 70 days. Peas come in different types, such as shelling, snap, and snow, and can be grown on trellises, fences, or poles.
• Lettuce: Lettuce is another early spring crop, as it can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 35°F (2°C). Lettuce can also tolerate light frosts, and can be harvested in 30 to 60 days. Lettuce comes in different varieties, such as leaf, head, and romaine, and can be grown in beds, containers, or salad boxes.
• Radishes: Radishes are one of the fastest and easiest crops to grow in spring, as they can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Radishes can also tolerate light frosts, and can be harvested in 20 to 40 days. Radishes come in different shapes, sizes, and colors, such as round, cylindrical, white, red, or purple, and can be grown in rows, containers, or intercropped with other plants.

Choose seeds that can grow in your soil type and pH

Another factor to consider when selecting seeds for early spring planting is your soil type and pH. The soil type is the texture and composition of your soil, such as sandy, clay, or loamy. The soil pH is the acidity or alkalinity of your soil, measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. You can find your soil type and pH by using a kit or a meter.

Some seeds can grow in any soil type and pH, while others may need a specific soil type or pH to thrive. For example, carrots, beans, and sunflowers can grow in most soil types and pH levels, while blueberries, potatoes, and lavender need acidic, well-drained, and sandy soil. Here are some examples of seeds that can grow in different soil types and pH levels:

• Sandy soil: Sandy soil is light and coarse, and has a low water and nutrient retention. Sandy soil can be improved by adding organic matter, such as compost, manure, or leaf mould, to increase its moisture and fertility. Some seeds that can grow in sandy soil are:
  • Cucumbers: Cucumbers are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 95°F (35°C). Cucumbers can tolerate sandy soil, as long as they are watered and fertilized regularly. Cucumbers can produce fruits in 50 to 70 days, and can be grown on trellises, cages, or hills.
  • Lavender: Lavender is a perennial herb that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Lavender prefers sandy soil, as it needs good drainage and aeration. Lavender can produce flowers in the first or second year, and can be grown in beds, borders, or containers.
  • Carrots: Carrots are cool-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 45°F (7°C). Carrots can grow well in sandy soil, as it allows their roots to grow long and straight. Carrots can be harvested in 60 to 80 days, and can be grown in rows, containers, or raised beds.
• Clay soil: Clay soil is heavy and sticky, and has a high water and nutrient retention. Clay soil can be improved by adding organic matter, such as compost, manure, or leaf mould, to loosen and aerate it. Some seeds that can grow in clay soil are:
  • Kale: Kale is a cold-hardy crop that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Kale can grow in clay soil, as it can benefit from its moisture and nutrients. Kale can be harvested in 50 to 70 days, and can be grown in beds, containers, or intercropped with other plants.
  • Roses: Roses are perennial flowers that can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C). Roses can adapt to clay soil, as long as they are mulched and pruned regularly. Roses can produce flowers in the first or second year, and can be grown in beds, borders, or pots.
  • Beans: Beans are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 85°F (29°C). Beans can tolerate clay soil, as long as they are watered and fertilized moderately. Beans can produce pods in 50 to 80 days, and can be grown on poles, stakes,
  •  or rows.
• Loamy soil: Loamy soil is a balanced and fertile soil, that has a good water and nutrient retention, and aeration. Loamy soil is ideal for most plants, and can be maintained by adding organic matter, such as compost, manure, or leaf mould, to replenish its nutrients. Some seeds that can grow in loamy soil are:
  • Tomatoes: Tomatoes are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 95°F (35°C). Tomatoes can thrive in loamy soil, as it provides them with enough moisture and nutrients. Tomatoes can produce fruits in 60 to 90 days, and can be grown on cages, stakes, or pots.
  • Sunflowers: Sunflowers are annual flowers that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 70°F (21°C). Sunflowers can flourish in loamy soil, as it supports their growth and flowering. Sunflowers can produce seeds in 80 to 120 days, and can be grown in beds, borders, or containers.
  • Peppers: Peppers are warm-season crops that can germinate in soil temperatures as high as 95°F (35°C). Peppers can prosper in loamy soil, as it offers them enough moisture and nutrients. Peppers can produce fruits in 60 to 100 days, and can be grown on cages, stakes, or pots.