A new year, fresh plans.

 I'd like to recommend a couple points that may not be in your plans but might be valuable.

1. Don't squander yourself. Consider your life condition; perhaps it is time to say "no" to certain things, people, and activities that do not benefit you but instead squander your time. Do not attempt to please everyone.

2. Make time for yourself. No matter how serious or vital the task is, you need to take a vacation from time to time. Perhaps play a game or go for a stroll in the evening without worrying about work or worries.

3. Learn a new language. It seems serious, but don't be concerned about how flawless it will be. When I was in France for a time, I discovered that not everyone speaks English, but you can get by with a basic understanding of German. Furthermore, the learning process is quite intriguing.

4.Listen to the quiet. Many people find meditation too difficult. Try sitting alone in solitude. Just a few minutes every day spent listening to the stillness.

5.Let turmoil into your life. When life gets hectic, we become exhausted and stressed. Try to let go of the reins, like in point 2. This time, it's also important to avoid making too many plans and taking things too seriously.

6. Complain less. Difficult point. We often don't realise we're moaning. Simply pay greater attention to what you're saying and watch it as if from the outside. The less we grumble, the more space for appreciation, pleasure, and love.

7. Increase your daily walks. Simple and quite handy. Enhances health, thinking, and posture.

Good luck!

Gardener’s calendar - January

 

January is a quiet month for most gardeners, but there are still some tasks that you can do to prepare your garden for the spring. Whether you have a vegetable plot, a flower bed, or a container garden, here are some tips and ideas to keep your plants healthy and happy in the cold season.

Key takeaways

What to do	What to plant	What to harvest
Protect your plants from frost and snow	Hardy vegetables like kale, spinach, and onions	Winter crops like leeks, parsnips, and Brussels sprouts
Prune your fruit trees and roses	Spring bulbs like daffodils, tulips, and crocuses	Herbs like rosemary, thyme, and sage
Clean and sharpen your tools	Indoor plants like orchids, ferns, and succulents	Citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and grapefruits
Plan your garden layout and order seeds	Bare-root plants like raspberries, strawberries, and roses	Winter salads like lettuce, rocket, and mizuna

Protect your plants from frost and snow

One of the main challenges for gardeners in January is to protect their plants from the harsh weather conditions. Frost and snow can damage the leaves, stems, and roots of your plants, and reduce their chances of survival. Here are some ways to prevent frost and snow damage:

• Cover your plants with fleece, straw, or mulch to insulate them from the cold. You can also use cloches, tunnels, or cold frames for smaller plants.
• Move your pots and containers to a sheltered spot, such as a porch, a greenhouse, or a windowsill. You can also wrap them with bubble wrap or cardboard to keep them warm.
• Water your plants sparingly, and only in the morning. Wet soil can freeze and expand, which can crack your pots and damage your plant roots.
• Remove any snow from your plants as soon as possible, especially from evergreens and conifers. Snow can weigh down your plants and break their branches.

Prune your fruit trees and roses

January is a good time to prune your fruit trees and roses, as they are dormant and less likely to bleed sap or attract diseases. Pruning can improve the shape, health, and productivity of your plants, as well as prevent overcrowding and crossing branches. Here are some general guidelines for pruning:

• Use sharp and clean tools to make clean cuts. You can disinfect your tools with alcohol or bleach between cuts to prevent spreading infections.
• Cut at an angle, about 1/4 inch above a bud or a branch collar. Avoid leaving stubs or tearing the bark.
• Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, as well as any suckers or water sprouts.
• Thin out any branches that are too dense, too long, or too low. Aim for an open and balanced structure that circulates light and air.
• For fruit trees, follow the specific pruning techniques for each type of tree, such as apple, pear, plum, or cherry. 
• For roses, cut back the main stems by about 1/3 to 1/2, depending on the type and size of the rose. You can also shorten the side shoots by about 2/3. 

Clean and sharpen your tools

Another task that you can do in January is to clean and sharpen your gardening tools. This can extend the life of your tools, as well as make your gardening work easier and safer. Here are some steps to follow:

• Wash your tools with warm water and soap to remove any dirt, rust, or sap. You can use a wire brush or steel wool to scrub off any stubborn stains. Rinse and dry your tools thoroughly.
• Sharpen your tools with a file, a whetstone, or a sharpening device. Follow the original angle and direction of the blade, and avoid over-sharpening or creating burrs. You can test the sharpness of your tools by cutting a piece of paper or wood.
• Oil your tools with a light machine oil or a spray lubricant to prevent rust and corrosion. You can also use a rag or a cloth to wipe off any excess oil.
• Store your tools in a dry and secure place, such as a shed, a garage, or a toolbox. You can also hang your tools on a wall or a rack to save space and keep them organized.

Drought-Tolerant Perennials

 

Those who grasp the importance of intelligent plant selection embrace the challenge of a limited garden area in the field of gardening. The draw of drought-tolerant perennials is clear for gardeners with small spaces. These hardy plants not only bring beauty to your outdoor refuge, but they also promise little care and water efficiency. As a gardening water technologist, I'm here to show you how to care for, propagate, and incorporate these treasures into your tiny garden.

Choosing Drought-Tolerant Perennials: What Are Some Good Options for Small Gardens?

Consider the following possibilities when choosing drought-tolerant perennials for your little garden:

Lavender (Lavandula): Lavender adds elegance and attracts pollinators with its fragrant blossoms and silvery leaves.

Sedum (Stonecrop): Sedums are low-growing plants that come in a variety of colours and are ideal for ground cover in tiny spaces.

Coneflower (Echinacea): Coneflowers, known for their vivid blooms, are not only drought-tolerant but also pollinator-friendly.

Yarrow (Achillea): This is a drought-tolerant perennial with feathery leaves and flat-topped blossoms.

Unlocking the Secret to Successful Drought-Tolerant Perennial Propagation

Drought-tolerant perennials may be a gratifying experience to propagate. Here's how it's done:

Divide established clumps of perennials in early spring or late autumn, making that each split has roots connected.

Cuttings: Take stem cuttings from healthy plants, remove the lowest leaves, and plant in well-draining soil.

Some perennials, such as yarrow, may be grown from seeds. Plant them in an appropriate seed-starting mix.

Using Drought-Tolerant Perennials to Attract Pollinators:

Making a Safe Haven for Bees and Butterflies

Certain drought-tolerant perennials attract pollinators. Consider:

Bee Balm (Monarda): The colourful blossoms of this plant attract bees and butterflies, making it a welcome addition to any modest garden.

Agastache (Hyssop): This aromatic perennial is popular with pollinators, particularly hummingbirds.

Salvia (Sage): Salvia, with its long spikes of flowers, is not only drought-tolerant but also a pollinator haven.

Including Drought-Resistant Perennials in Your Small Garden:

Making the Most of Space and Beauty

Use the following tactics to make the most of your limited space:

Vertical gardening: Use trellises or hanging pots to grow climbing perennials like clematis.

Container gardening allows you to move drought-tolerant perennials around and create focus areas.

Layering: Design your garden with varying heights in mind, with taller perennials in the rear and lower ones in the front.

Drought-Tolerant Perennials to Consider for Fall Blooming:

Extending the Beauty Past the Summer

With these perennials, you can ensure that your tiny garden remains vivid in the autumn:

Autumn Joy Sedum: In the autumn, this sedum variety produces huge, flat flower heads that change from pink to rusty red.

Russian Sage (Perovskia): Russian sage provides an ethereal touch to autumn gardens with its silvery leaves and airy blossoms.

Helenium (Sneezeweed): This bright perennial flowers late in the season, offering a splash of colour.

Watering Drought-Tolerant Perennials in a Small Garden: How to Balance Care with Water Conservation

Even though these plants are drought-tolerant, they still require attention. Follow these guidelines:

Deep Watering: Water deeply yet infrequently to promote the growth of deep roots.

Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around plants to keep soil moisture in place and weeds at bay.

Watering in the early morning reduces evaporation and gives plants time to dry before evening.

Harmony in Small Spaces: Creating Cohesive Design

Creating a unified design using drought-tolerant perennials entails the following steps:

Colour Scheme: Use a colour scheme that matches the overall attractiveness of your little garden.

Repetition: Repeat particular plant species or colours across the area to create a sense of togetherness.

Pathways and Borders: Create structure and visual appeal by defining pathways and borders with drought-tolerant perennials.

Common Mistakes to Avoid: Ensuring Small Garden Design Success

When adding drought-tolerant perennials, avoid the following pitfalls:

Overcrowding: Resist the impulse to overcrowd your little garden; instead, allow each plant enough room to grow.

Ignoring Soil Quality: Even for drought-tolerant perennials, provide well-draining soil to avoid soggy roots.

Neglecting Regular Maintenance: While these plants are low-maintenance, they still require periodic attention to maintain their health and vitality.

Remember, as you begin on the road of growing a tiny garden with drought-tolerant perennials, that sustainability and beauty may coexist. Choose your plants with care, use eco-friendly propagation methods, and construct your sanctuary with thought. You not only create a beautiful environment, but you also help to water conservation and the overall well-being of our planet. 

You're doing well with your planting!

Propagate plants by cuttings

 

Cutting propagation is one of the most popular ways of plant propagation utilised globally. A cutting is a section of a mother plant that has been cut off and from which a new plant will grow.

 Plant propagation by woody cuttings is a simple and easy way of propagation. Annual shoots are used to make woody cuttings. The cutting period varies for each plant and must be properly adhered to. Not just berry bushes, but also most beautiful plants such as physocarp, and others, are propagated in this manner. Blackcurrant cuttings, for example, are produced after the leaves fall and continue until the buds mature in the spring. However, blackcurrant cuttings taken in late October yield the greatest results, as blackcurrants might be frosty near the end of winter. In the first decade of September, currant and gooseberry cuttings are made.

Cuttings range from 12 to 15 cm. Currant cuttings must not have the top bud removed, but blackcurrant cuttings must. The lowest portion of the cuts should be cut 2-3 mm below the bud, as obliquely as possible. The prepared cuttings can be cut in the bed immediately (with a 15-18 cm layer of peat following frost) or carefully buried in the overwintering location. Cuttings can be kept cold (0 to +20 C) in a basement buried in peat or in the field. When frost begins to fall, cover the burial location with a 15-18 cm layer of peat. Cuttings are planted upright in light, extensively tilled soil, whereas they are planted horizontally in heavier, wetter, and shallower soil.

Cut a 10-15 cm long plug 2-3 mm below the node and break off a piece of wood from a biennial branch to leave a trace at the end (this will stimulate the growth process). Cuttings that are too long must be trimmed by cutting off the tip so that they do not come out when implanted in the substrate. When the air temperature is over +10 °C, the optimal time for propagation is mid-March to early April.

Woody cuttings can be used to produce berry plants such as currants, blackcurrants, and golden currants, as well as decorative deciduous shrubs such as spireas, hydrangeas, willows, philadelphus. Trees can also take root (mulberry, poplar, and even lilac).

Aunts root nicely among the conifers. Junipers may be propagated as well. More careful gardeners have discovered how to root spruces and Douglas firs.

Conifer cuttings are made by severing the branch and snapping (rather than cutting) the shoots. At the bottom of the scion, a so-called foot - a piece of bark - develops.

- The soil around the cuttings is compressed, enveloping the trigger section and the buds in the soil.

- Professionals employ growth stimulants for cuttings, but amateur gardeners don't need them.

Unheated greenhouse

Unheated greenhouses that are not very hot right now and are still vacant are ideal for rooting cuttings. Digging in boxes rather than directly in the soil is preferable. In the summer, the young plants can be removed from the greenhouse. Later transplantation will cause less disruption to the root system.

Prepare the boxes for bursting by filling them with substrate. Garden soil is also appropriate since woody cuttings are resilient.

Moisture levels in all cuttings must be closely checked. The soil must not dry out, but neither should it become excessively wet.

- It is beneficial to pinch the cuttings tightly since this increases the likelihood of one developing.

Varieties of thuja are propagated vegetatively by cuttings. The best time to cut cuttings is early spring (before budbreak) or late June, early July, when the young shoots are no longer raw but are mature.

The shoots are first cut and then separated into cuts by ripping, leaving a sliver of biennial wood at the root. Cuttings should be 8-15 cm in length. Make them neither too short nor too long, or they will adhere to the substrate and root poorly. The cuts must be done at an oblique angle and roughly 1 cm deep. The cuttings can be bathed in Schultz Garden growth booster for enhanced rooted, although conifers root well without it. In the spring and summer, rooting can be done in a greenhouse on a raised bed or in a bed in the shade of a shrub in a 1:1 mixture of peat and sand or vermiculite. 

Growing dahlias for cutting inflorescences

 

Dahlias are one of the most popular cut flowers because they produce beautiful and long-lasting inflorescences in a wide range of forms, sizes, and colours. Growing dahlias for cutting, on the other hand, necessitates great care and attention because to their sensitivity to cold, pests, and diseases. We'll walk you through the process of cultivating dahlias for cutting inflorescences, from selecting the correct types to planting and caring for them to harvesting and storing them.

Important takeaways

- Dahlias are classified into 14 groups based on the shape and size of their inflorescences, which range in diameter from 5 cm to 30 cm.

- Dahlias may be produced from tubers or seeds, although tubers produce bigger and more diversified inflorescences.

- Dahlias require a sunny, well-drained position, rich, wet soil, consistent watering and feeding, and protection from frost, snails, and aphids.

- Dahlias should be cut when the inflorescences are fully open, ideally in the morning or evening, and immediately placed in a bucket of water.

Dahlias can be kept in a cold, dark spot for up to a week, or dried for longer storage.

Dahlias are classified into 14 groups based on the shape and size of their inflorescences, which range in diameter from 5 cm to 30 cm. Some of the most common cutting groups are:

**Decorative dahlias**: These feature big, flat petals in the shape of a ball or oval. They are available in a variety of colours and bicolbi-coloursors and are great for adding a splash of colour to bouquets and centrepieces. 'Café au Lait,' 'Thomas Edison,' and 'Arabian Night' are a few examples.

**Cactus and semi-cactus dahlias**: These feature long, pointed petals that curve backwards and forwards, giving them a spiky or star-like look. They are highly visible and give texture and contrast to flower arrangements. 'Chat Noir,' 'Nuit d'Été,' and 'Yellow' are a few instances.

**Ball and pompon dahlias** feature petite, spherical inflorescences that look like pompoms or balls. They are quite consistent and clean, and they are ideal for adding colour and filling gaps in bouquets and arrangements. 'Cornel,' 'Little Robert,' and 'Willo's Violet' are a few examples.

**Anemone-flowered dahlias**: These feature a tubular disc in the centre surrounded by one or more rows of flat ray florets. They have a delicate and whimsical appearance and are ideal for achieving a romantic and feminine impression. 'Totally Tangerine,' 'Blue Bayou,' and 'Honka' are a few examples.

 **Single-flowered dahlias** contain a single row of flat ray florets around a centre disc. They are simple and attractive, and they attract bees and butterflies. 'Bishop of Llandaff' is one example.

The table below summarizes the main characteristics of each group:

Group	Inflorescence size	Inflorescence shape	Petal shape	Petal arrangement
Decorative	10-30 cm	Ball or oval	Flat	Regular
Cactus and semi-cactus	10-30 cm	Spiky or star-like	Pointed	Curved
Ball and pompon	5-10 cm	Spherical	Round	Regular
Anemone-flowered	5-15 cm	Disc and ray	Tubular and flat	Irregular
Single-flowered	5-15 cm	Disc and ray	Flat	Regular

Dahlia plantation and care

Dahlias may be produced from tubers or seeds, with tubers producing bigger and more diversified inflorescences. Tubers are available at nurseries and online retailers, and should be planted in the spring, after the last frost, in a sunny, well-drained position. The soil should be rich and wet but not soggy, and it should be supplemented with organic materials like compost or manure. Depending on the size of the variety, the tubers should be planted 10-15 cm deep and 60-90 cm apart. To support the plant as it grows, attach a stake close to each tuber.

Dahlias require consistent watering and feeding throughout the growth season, especially during hot, dry spells. Every two weeks, a balanced fertiliser, such as 10-10-10, can be used, or a slow-release fertiliser can be incorporated into the soil at planting time. Mulching is also beneficial to dahlias since it helps to retain moisture, control weeds, and protect the tubers from cold. Dahlias should be pruned when they reach a height of around 30 cm to stimulate branching and additional inflorescences. Deadheading, or the removal of spent inflorescences, encourages continual flowering and avoids seed production.

Dahlias are vulnerable to cold, snails, and aphids, all of which can harm the plants and inflorescences. When the temperature falls below 5°C, cover the plants with a frost cloth or a covering of straw or leaves to protect them from frost. Slugs can be deterred by placing a barrier of crushed eggshells, diatomaceous earth, or copper tape around the plants, or by using slug bait. A powerful spray of water, a soap solution, or a natural predator such as ladybirds can be used to control aphids.